Monday, I scored Jocko's! After we dropped Bella off at school, me and Sam went to the beach. I brought my surfboard and sam brought her suntan lotion. I knew north shore was going to have waves, I just didnt know if it was going to be good or not. We passed by "Lani's" and it was going off!! I probably would of surfed there, but I thought Chun's would be better for sam to find some shade under a tree. When we got to the beach, it looked pretty normal... chun's looked like a fun 2-3 feet with a ton of longboarders out (nothing new there). Then some bomb sets came rolling through Jocko's. Time for me to hit the water.
I'd say the Jocko's/ Holton's area was about 3-4 occ. 5 ft. It's been a very long time since i've been out at a spot and actually got a little scared duck diving some bombs. It was the kind of day that it took you two strokes to just get up the face of the wave. I was out at Jocko's for about an hour and scored 4 good ones. My board felt a bit too small for the waves that day. I had a blast though. I cant wait for it to get good again soon.
Chun's was pretty good, but it had its normal crowd.
nobody was surfing the inside chun's though... that would be my next stop after I got tired of surfing Jocko's.
"ho brah!! we go chun's!! bring da longboard brah, leave da heineken in da coolah"
S.U.P. to the maximum!!!!!
I paddled out to Jocko's.. sam took the camera, but she didnt get any pictures of me getting any good waves out there. I think I ended up drifting to the Left's at Holtons anyway, a bit too far for my camera range.
it was super fun i tell you.
so when my arms turned to jello from paddling around at Jocko's I came in through chun's and caught a few more baby waves on the inside.For some reason everyone else was in the wrong place except for me, so I got away with a lot of fun little waves
that was a fun day.. I cant wait till country gets good again. I feel sorry for all y'all who have to go to "work" or attend class, sucks for you - good for me... I'll let you know how it was. ;)
