Me, Sam, and Chaz headed back to good ol' "tracks" on the west side for a beach session. Its been a very long time since i've surfed this spot. Not much has changed, except for the fact that it never seems to be as consistent as it used to be 10 years ago. The waves were about 1-2 feet with a 10 minute wait between sets, but it was awesome to get in one more surf session with chaz before he moves. Awesome that Sam got some shots of us.
Chaz picks off his first wave of the day (amazed he didnt get dropped in on by a bitch)
My first wave of the day... the conditions were pretty nice when we first got there, but got cold, windy, and cloudy soon after. (and yes! those are vintage OP boardshorts from the 80's)
Maybe the set of the day..
We paddled over to "acid drops" after being dropped in on, and cut off too many times. not bad over here, just less consistent.
Tryin to make the best with what we got..
Time to come in... me and chaz porpoise ourselves in.
Chaz has a theory that you cant truly enjoy the ocean unless you learn to let your board become YOUR master. Here chaz demonstrates the proper method for switching places with your board, and letting your board ride you!
whoa chaz... pump yo' brakes!! pump yo' brakes!
Chaz picks off his first wave of the day (amazed he didnt get dropped in on by a bitch)
My first wave of the day... the conditions were pretty nice when we first got there, but got cold, windy, and cloudy soon after. (and yes! those are vintage OP boardshorts from the 80's)
Maybe the set of the day..
We paddled over to "acid drops" after being dropped in on, and cut off too many times. not bad over here, just less consistent.
Tryin to make the best with what we got..
Time to come in... me and chaz porpoise ourselves in.
Chaz has a theory that you cant truly enjoy the ocean unless you learn to let your board become YOUR master. Here chaz demonstrates the proper method for switching places with your board, and letting your board ride you!
whoa chaz... pump yo' brakes!! pump yo' brakes!
