woo hoo... another day of good surfing. This time I went by myself up to the country. I was sure somewhere was gonna be good on a 6-8 foot NW swell, light wind day. I checked Everywhere from Lani's up to Rocky Point, and everywhere was good! All you had to do was pick a spot you wanted to surf and do it. Crowds looked light since everyone was split up between the spots. Jocko's was the only place that looked a bit too crowded, which was too bad because it looked super fun. I ended up jumping in at Pupukea. Here are some more recap pictures and video from my 09/11 Pupu surf day.
I think this is a picture of Chun's...
Here is a picture of "leftover's", one of my old favorite spots... I was really tempted to go out here but I forced myself to check up by the beach park just in case...
some good ones coming in to 'Leftovers' before I ventured further up the road...
when I got to Pupukea / Gas chambers... it looked really fun!! Crowd was manageable, good size waves coming in.
I decided to surf Pupukea instead of driving back down to "leftovers"... i was in the mood for a short paddle out.
... it was pretty much exactly how these pictures make it look...
.. i'm in the water now...
... score one for this guy.
this guy gets some 'Kudos' too, because he had on this sweetness skeleton rash guard.
Video time... I ended up getting pounded everytime I tried to video tape myself catching the big waves, so I put the camera away for a while and actually enjoyed myself. Somebody come with me next time.
t'was fun. I was also reminded of a few things you will always see when you surf up by Ehukai...
1).. you will always see somebody's dog sitting on the sand waiting for their owner to come in from surfing.2.) there are always girls hanging out... and a lot of the times they are Brazilian.3.) Somebody will park their bike right here....so fun for you??? or was that just fun for me. my arms are getting all tanned up and stuff. we are off to a good start for winter.
...Hey, do you notice something odd about this picture below?? I think this girl was "pleasuring herself" on the beach... the waves were that good!! haha.
bon voyage
