I got my posts out of order, now what are you gonna do? Tuesday afternoon I surfed Polie's by myself. Baron and Drew went earlier that day, they called me, told me it was "going off"... and I know what "going off" at Polie's means... it means I gotta get out there. So I finally made it to the beach 3 hours after I talked to them. Unfortunately by the time I got down there, the swell was pretty much dead. Luckily, the conditions were perfect, the waves that did come in were fun, and it wasnt crowded.
I surfed till the sun got close to the horizon and the rain poured out of the clouds. Since the waves were small, I spent most of my session trying to take pictures of the rainbow, thinking about funny ideas for pictures, and staring at my hands. The tide was super low, the lowest i've ever seen it out there, you could touch the reef with your feet while you were waiting for the sets on the outside. weird. I did catch one good wave, head high, 4 turns, warm water, rainbow, no wetsuit, perfect.
If only it was a little bigger, it would of been mind blowing (That's what she said).
another thing when I was bored. "I think I should be a model... anyone know if 'Z Cavaricci' is hiring?"
lady surfer silhouette.
I didnt know i took a picture of a fish until I got home. I just randomly took a picture underwater and this showed up. Anyone know what kind of fish it is?? I was thinking it was a Penguin, but i'm not 100% sure.
the rain was fun
Oh, I video taped the small waves. what else you gonna do.
bye