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surfing Backyards + Chuns



I'm a little late on this post. Anyway, on Monday Me and Pat got back into the surf. Pat brought me to 'Backyards', the spot after Sunset beach on the north shore. We were thinking about going to Polie's but figured it would of been too small. The swell was definitely a foot or two smaller than it was suppose to be. Anyway, it was my first time surfing Backyards, it was fun. The wind kinda effected it after 2 hours, so we went back down to Chun's to surf the inside break. It was a good day to hang out in the water, though the waves were small.
On Tuesday, we went back to Chun's but this time to surf the left, "Pidley's". It was super fun on tuesday since the swell had a lot of west direction in it. The lefts were lining up pretty long from Chun's. Good fun. I didnt bring my camera that day, and I realized I surf way better without a camera strapped to my arm.

Well here's the pics from Monday at 'Backyards' and 'Chuns'
It was a nice glassy morning, and the conditions stayed pretty nice until 11:00 or so.







Backyards breaks in pretty shallow water, not too crazy though.


All right then, let's surf some rights. Chun's was pretty good (the outside), but crowded as usual. Me and Pat surfed the small inside waves all by ourselves. Tiny




and this dad is crazy. This kid is crazy. Scary stuff, i dont know if I would bring Bella out at this young.


Short Video...


see