So monday was being called "Big Monday" because of the big WNW swell that came in. North shore was suppose to be something like 35 ft, but I dont know if it actually got that big, Makaha was suppose to be 15-18 feet so we headed to check a few spots on the SW side of the island. Bummer, we got 'skunked'. The first place we checked was suppose to be good, but it was micro. Then we checked tracks, it was okay but crowded. We ended up surfing in front of the HECO plant, a few breaks down from Tracks. It was okay. I'm more of a "at least there's nobody out" kinda guy, so thats how we did it on "Big Monday".
The first spot we checked. I think it's called "Black rock'' or 'Black point' or something... either way it was too small. The high tide, i think, was too high.
... The garbage man came to put these waves in the dump.
Then we checked 'Tracks', which was breaking pretty good, but it was pretty crowded for what it was. The same old story with Tracks I guess.
in front of the bathrooms at Tracks.
So we left the Tracks parking lot, and drove back towards the HECO plant.
The waves looked okay, nobody out, so we figured we would surf it for a while and if it was junk we would check somewhere else.
Pat
Pat and Brandon, the only crowd.
Pat
you ever realize how much you stare at the nose of your surfboard when you're paddling?.. "It's underwater,... now its above water... now its splashing water in my face... "
Brandon
Pat
A bomb coming through across at "acid drops"
Pat's last wave
The tide started to get a bit too low, and a bit sketchy. My leash got wrapped around some reef when I was sitting on my board. Time to go
On the way home we checked out a few spots... This be one of Ko'olina's secrets.
then we checked out our other secret spot, the one we thought would of been 5 feet because of the west wrap, but it wasnt really happening.
we'll be back to check this place tomorrow.
also.... " BOGO sale? "..
here's the video... kinda dizzy looking. blah blah blah
ciao
