My friend Eric made a comment to me yesterday after I posted about the surf session I had at Pyramid Rock on Thursday (see previous post below this one.) Anyway, Eric used to live here on Oahu now he lives in cali, he said:
It got me thinking, and I know I dont take this place (hawaii) for granted. But seriously, sometimes you gotta think and be grateful on how lucky you are to live in Hawaii, especially Oahu, if you are a surfer. Just think of all the amazing surf spots that are on Oahu alone. During the year you could surf any type of wave you wanted (crowds not included in this scenario)... if you wanted an amazing barrel, you could surf 'Pipe'. If you wanted to hang ten, you could surf 'Queens'. If you wanted a long right hander to practice your roundhouse cutbacks, make the drive down to Makaha. If you wanted to get some killer shorebreak, head over to Makapuu and Sandy's. If you wanted a perfect rippable wave, go surf 'Bowls' or even 'Rocky Point'. Not to mention every fun little beach break in between here and there. Seriously every type of wave is located within a 25 mile radius from my house.
Anyway back to the point at hand. "You should of been here yesterday" came to mind when we surfed pyramid rock again. Friday morning, we went into full grom mode again and pulled a 'dawn patrol' session out. Waking up at 5:00am to drive over the mountain again in hopes to score another session like the day before, this time more amped to shred harder and try to get deeper in the line up.
When we got to the beach, it just wasnt happening. Actually, maybe it was okay, but compared to the day before, it was shu-shu. With no other options near by ('North Beach' was shut down), we paddled out for a sunrise session. Turned out to be a real beautiful morning, i'm glad I brought my camera with me because it was more of a photo session than a surfing session.
I think the photos actually make the session look better than it actually was. Not like the day before, where the photos didnt really get the message across on how epic it really was. Anyway, I had fun hanging out in the beautiful water with great friends. Enjoy the pics I took with my Fuji Z33 point-n-shoot camera (the best $160 investment i've ever made.)
I had to make sure I had my proper Dawn patrol breakfast.
unusual sign: "Ladies Night at the main exchange"... Drew was very interested in crashing this party.
We checked 'North Beach' first, but it was closed down. So we went back to the Egyptian rock formation surfboarding area. Just in time to make it for the sunrise.
Seeing warm blue water like this, will really make you wanna go out...
...even though the only thing really 'firing' was the sunrise, not the waves.
I wonder how many of these Marines surf? And if any of these guys do surf, how irritating is it to have to be doing P.T. on the sand while some tasty waves are breaking right by your feet...
Beautiful beach is it not?!
Here Drew is sharing with me those "long walks on the beach" he is always gabbing about. We had our candlelight lunch shortly after.
I think this might be Baron
Drew's 'twinnie'
Brennan and Drew
We werent super anxious to get in the water, so we spent some time on the beach flirting with each other and talking about our new Facebook profile pictures.
stretch first, then frolic
better than a morning cup of coffee.
Drew was trying to poke my eyes out. He must of learned that in his jiu-jitsu kung fu class.
1/3 the size of yesterday
Baron taking a fresh one
same wave, but without Baron
Drew's feet got a pretty good barrel on this one. Just as hard as "hanging ten" is the "2 feet in the 2 footer" maneuver.
morning sun gave me some good lighting for this shot of Brennan turning down his bed.
I think my favorite picture from the day.
Feeling blessed
this is somebody, but it could of easily been any of you.
at this point, Brennan is planning out how to make the next 10 seconds memorable for the rest of the day. "go left or go right?..."
Stay Gold Pony boy
self water portrait.
Drew 182
The ocean has fun by itself when you are not around.
same wave, just cropped differently... I dont know which one i like better..
Upside down Swan dive
looks like Baron is 1/2 dude, and 1/2 sting ray.
He's also 1/2 dude, 1/2 tiger shark. Sharky camoflauge
This picture might of been better with a hot bikini model, but Baron did just fine.
he's also good at self frontal wedgies. "Do me one like that" I said
Fart bubbles..
I shot some video, nothing too exciting, but fun none the less.
... this is just the tip of the iceberg.
