Hi there. It has been a long time since i've blogged about surfing. The last time I surfed was October 14th, wow. Anyway it was worth the wait! This morning I surfed with Drew, Baron, Kamalu, and Brennan, we surfed a spot sort of considered a 'secret spot' i guess. It may look like "Pyramid Rock"... but it's not. Pyramid Rock is never this good, don't ever surf there. But where we did surf was so freaking FUN, i'm glad i had my little waterproof camera with me. Details now (*Click pictures to enlarge);
It was one of those spots where you had to take a military jet just to get there. Pretty elite
Then you had to take the "Explosive Route" (the road less traveled)
The skies were blue, the water was blue, and Drew's balls were blue.
.... believe it or not, we did not surf this place. This was the first spot we checked...
funny little rights behind the bushes.
I think this sign is suppose to say: "Hawaii Beaches Rule"
Next sport to be sponsored by mountain dew: 'extreme railslide surfing'. Im practicing tricks like 'frontside boardslide to backside barrel'.
too junk right?... let's check the next spot.
next spot. oh yes. looks like the sand, the wind, the swell, the tide, even the whales were all working in our favor today.
somebody just got 'faded'
Dropping off the next batch of surfers
Drew's plane.
4 ft. 'Kirra-esque' lefts rolling in (if Kirra was a left). Just so fun. Most of the time I was sitting on the inside trying to figure out my position. I've only surfed here twice, this time being the best. Guys were out there getting SHACKED for sure. I noticed 3 underwater pro camera housings in the water and 2 videographers on the sand.... and me with my point-n-shoot.
The water was really this color, super blue and clean.
One lucky guy dis one.
Bodysurfer about get gooded.
One of the empty ones. There wasnt many empty sets, but some good ones came into the inside. Pretty perfect if you wanted to bodyboard and drop in late.
Oh my. Where were you on this one? you should of been here.
shaboing.
perfect and most importantly, they were super makeable waves... you just had to go get one.
nobody on this one either.
Baron (on his way out from his 10 point backside tube ride)
looking down the line on the inside.
Baron riding the pyramid slide.
Drew took my camera for a hot minute.
"did I just see an Orca?"
...okay the next photos need a little detailing. The photo below, take a good look, there is a guy in the tube already. This was probably the sickest wave of the day. The next 3 pictures are all of the same guy on the same wave. Absolutely scored!! He was pretty much tucked in the entire wave. I think getting barreled this long would of changed my life.
same wave, inside pitch, still getting barreled.
"Lucky"~ Napolean Dynamite
Brennan and Kamalu on the outer limits.
fresh and clean.
Bomb.
Plane
Baron / Drew 182
get ready for the awesomeness you are about to receive dude
the best bath I ever had.
another inside pitcher.
Drew and Kamalu getting over it.
Fun stuff. I hope to score this place again soon, like this. Next time I think I can figure out the line-up a little better. Hope the military guys will share some, or else i'm gonna have to bring out my "Hey, my dad was in the Pentagon when the plane hit!" line. "Give me this wave"
Here is the video I shot with my camera. I didnt get any video of myself on waves, but I did get a cute tube on one of my last waves. Sometimes I just had to make sure I didnt get in someones way or get under a wave in time before I got broked. talkin' about good times.
adios amigos. We scored today.
