Man, we've been getting to the beach a lot! Tuesday after we dropped Bella off at school, Sam, Bronson, and I went to Ehukai beach park to hang out. I brought my surfboard even though the surf report said north shore was only 1-2ft, i thought maybe i'd get lucky out at Pupukea or something. Anyway we get to the beach and I see a few waves breaking at Pipe and only 2 guys out, so we set up our umbrella there and hung out. The waves were pretty fun, but yeah it was small. This is only the 2nd time i've surfed Pipe, the first time it was 3-4 feet and I nearly shit myself.
Today was about 1 foot with a 2 foot wave every 20 minutes, but there was only 3 guys out at the max, so I had much fun. Whether or not Pipeline is 2 foot or 4 foot, I have to admit that reef is pretty sketchy.
This is what it looked like as soon as we got there... and this is what it looked like every 20 minutes after each set of waves. (flat)
nothing going on either down towards Pupukea.
"Off the wall" had some good waves come through there, a handful of bodyboarders were enjoying themselves.
..... but every 20 minutes.. some fun waves came in to pipeline!!
So i went out for a bit, in hopes of catching the smallest barrell that pipeline had to offer...
and trying to hit the smallest lip that pipe had to offer...
get up, get on up ah... james brown
The Coast gaurd flew by to check on me, making sure i didnt hurt the waves too bad =)
Bronson 'going for broke' in the shorebreak
... so i was out for like an hour, catching a few fun small ones then i decided to come in and hang out with bronson and Sam on the beach. 5 minutes after I come in, the best set of waves of the day come in while im on the beach! ack, nobody on them!
nobody on this one either!!
... it was enough convincing for me to go back out! (but only a couple more small ones came in)
Ive learned this pose from taking pictures of Models recently.. I call it "The Lookback"
last wave in..
The great wall of Ehukai
and of course I need to end every north shore beach session with these pictures.
I went for the 'full monty' on my shave ice, and got ice cream and azuki beans in it and topped it off with condensed milk.
till next time
Today was about 1 foot with a 2 foot wave every 20 minutes, but there was only 3 guys out at the max, so I had much fun. Whether or not Pipeline is 2 foot or 4 foot, I have to admit that reef is pretty sketchy.
This is what it looked like as soon as we got there... and this is what it looked like every 20 minutes after each set of waves. (flat)
nothing going on either down towards Pupukea.
"Off the wall" had some good waves come through there, a handful of bodyboarders were enjoying themselves.
..... but every 20 minutes.. some fun waves came in to pipeline!!
So i went out for a bit, in hopes of catching the smallest barrell that pipeline had to offer...
and trying to hit the smallest lip that pipe had to offer...
get up, get on up ah... james brown
The Coast gaurd flew by to check on me, making sure i didnt hurt the waves too bad =)
Bronson 'going for broke' in the shorebreak
... so i was out for like an hour, catching a few fun small ones then i decided to come in and hang out with bronson and Sam on the beach. 5 minutes after I come in, the best set of waves of the day come in while im on the beach! ack, nobody on them!
nobody on this one either!!
... it was enough convincing for me to go back out! (but only a couple more small ones came in)
Ive learned this pose from taking pictures of Models recently.. I call it "The Lookback"
last wave in..
The great wall of Ehukai
and of course I need to end every north shore beach session with these pictures.
I went for the 'full monty' on my shave ice, and got ice cream and azuki beans in it and topped it off with condensed milk.
till next time
