Finally got in a surf session, really its been about 2 months since ive surfed last. Anyway me and sam went to the beach while Bella was in school (the luxuries of parenthood.) I headed up to Polie's in mokuleia since the winds were variable with a light south flow (awesome conditions). It felt so good to get back into the water again. For the past week or so me and Sam have really been missing the mainland from our roadtrip. Getting to the beach this friday was a great way to remind ourselves how lucky we are to live in Hawaii. If you've surfed polie's on a good clean day, you know what im talking about. The water was an amazing blue-green and it was crystal clear all the way down to the reef. The waves were about shoulder to head high and absolutely rippable. It took me about 30 minutes to get my "sea legs" back in effect so I surfed like a "kook" for a while. But, sometimes surfing's not about ripping it up, sometimes its about relaxing and enjoying your thoughts. After the beach, we went to hang out in Haleiwa.Polies from the beach. (yeah, its kind of a far paddle out)
One of the classic sites you'll see when surfing this place.. Parachuters landing at dillingham. I shot a few pics before i paddled out so you guys could see the waves (uncrowded) this dude enjoying the "ripping it up" part of surfing.
You cant park in the Camp anymore (unless you wanna buy a $100 annual parking pass) so we parked out in front of the bridge. Lucky for us our car was not broken into. but as you know it happens a lot at this spot.. this picture shows what your car window will look like sometimes.
off to haleiwa for some shave ice. Yeah 'Matsumotos' is good shave ice, but 'Aokis' is good too! and the line is NEVER long. I had the "Haleiwa delight" which consists of Melon, Lilikoi, and Guava flavors... and I added condensed milk on top. there's not many places in the world where you'll see this sign on Every store in town. thats o.k. though.. i just waited outside and let my shave ice become a yummy slurpee.
aloha
